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2002 SOUTH AFRICA
...a little closer

2004 BACK IN AFRICA 


























































































































































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Last Update:
Letzte Aktualisierung:
May 2004
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Despite of being asked, why go to Zambia of all countries, I believed there must be something of worth and interest to discover.
The roads were a catastrophe at the time, and I dont know if they've changed.
We stayed at Chris's camp in a quite and peaceful part on the outskirts of Lusaka which I would never have imagined to exist in a city like Lusaka.
After a few days under Chris's guidence I started to taking a liking to the place, it was very different and very interesting.
Zambia as I was to discover, though horrible expensive still has abundant remote and fascinating beautiful places, which are very often inaccessable, as well as a wealth of wildlife in it's vast Park's .

The roads must fall under the category of the most testing and punishing in Africa and in the wet season you can forget about going anywhere.
Local Bus
In the north there had been reports of vast rains and since Chris's Safaris had been cancelled due to the impossible river crossings we decided to do the same. Andy's camp was in the middle of the country so it was a safe guess that it wouldn't be too soggy there.
To the top top
PotholesPotholes
We were both about to be tested to the limits of patience. 
The only reason we made it was because we were in no hurry and had all the time we needed.
The main road was so badly pitted with potholes and eroded verges there was hardly no tar left.
In some of the holes you could have hidden a african cow or two.
Finally the tar disappeared completly and the dirt road morphed into a bad rollercoaster ride, which was actually no problem because that's what we had a 4 x 4 for, but then came the tsetse flies!
Kafue roadIn the heat of the day we had to close all our windows but still the persistent little insects got in and stormed for our blood. Outside the Landrover was covered with the unmerciful fly's.
PontoonAt the Kafue River we had to get out at the Pontoon crossing and put our Landie on the Ferrie so we got eaten alive. I was getting used to the sharp stings by now and decided it wasn't that bad after all.
SunsriseAt the camp the helpers had cut the long grass which got rid of the fly's.
We choose a hut with a sleeping platform which jutted out into the river so we could take foto's of the mist rising above the water at morning dawn.
Camp by riverCamp by river




To the Toptop
Across the river from us lived a group of noisy hippo's that burped and grunted all through the night.
long grassThis was the middle of the bush and even though it was paradisically beautiful and I was totally enchanted, we were inexperienced and alone and after some days we soon got frustrated with our uneventful daily safari trips.
clogged radiator

Radiator clogged with grasshoppers,
butterfly's and all the bush had to offer.
The grass was so long it nearly covered our Landie and if there had been any game we would have missed it.
It seemed the totally wrong time of year to be here.
pontoon home
Some days later we crossed the Kafue River agin and headed back to Lusaka.


To the Toptop
Peter made some adjustments to our landrovers springs and brakepads. From there it was only about 600 km's to the Malawian Border of pothole catastrophe.
Landie maintenanceLandie maintenance
This stretch of road was reasonable populated, the bush still very green and impossible to see what lay behind the next clump of trees. We decided it wasn't wise to freely camp, which is why we wanted to cover it in one day to get to our next known camp.
Burning bushAll along the the road the bush was smouldering with fires's.
The locals burn the trees to coal which they sell in large sacks beside roadsside.
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Roadside Shop
Every now and then we would be stopped by police who wanted to see our "papers". It always turned out they were either bored, wanted to chat, nosey or hinting for bribes, but never seriously interested in our papers.
mosquechiweta village
The last outpost before we reached the border of Malawi was Chipata, a colourful noisy and vibrant african town.
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